Category Archives: tool

Sight PRO

The Maryland Gunworks, or MGW Armory, Sight PRO sight pusher is one of the tools that we use here in the shop. The Sight PRO uses gun specific shoes to attach the slide to the pusher. The list of them is below:

MGW Part NumberGuns That Use It
SP102

in shop

All GLOCKS except 42 & 43
SP103

in shop

Springfield Armory XD-S
SP104

in shop

Smith & Wesson M&P Shield, M&P Shield 2.0
SP105

in shop

Colt 1911, SIG SAUER 1911, Bersa Thunder, Kimber Ultra Carry II, Springfield Armory EMP 9mm, Para-Ordnance Carry 12
SP106

in shop

Springfield Armory XD, XD-M, EMP 9mm, Para-Ordnance Carry 12, 2
SP107

in shop

Smith & Wesson 3rd Generation 9mm
SP108

in shop

FN 9mm Luger, 40 S&W (FNP, FNS, FNX), Forty-Nine, FNS-9C, FN509
SP109

in shop

SIG P220, P225, P226, P228, P229, & P239
SP110

in shop

SIG Pro Series
SP111

in shop

Beretta 92
SP112

in shop

Beretta Cougar, PX4
SP113

in shop

H&K USP, P2000, P30, P45
SP114

in shop

Smith & Wesson M&P1
SP115

in shop

GLOCK 42 & 43
SP116

in shop

Ruger SR Series
SP117

in shop

Bersa BP Series
SP118

in shop

Colt Mustang, Kimber Micro Carry
SP119

in shop

Ruger LC Series
SP120

in shop

Ruger P Series
SP121

in shop

CZ-75, Baby Eagle, CZ P09, Sphinx SDP Compact
SP122

in shop

SIG P238
SP123

in shop

SIG P938
SP124

in shop

Browning Hi-Power, FEG Hi-Power, Tokarev
SP125

in shop

Smith & Wesson Bodyguard, Kahr P380, Kimber Micro Cary 9
SP126

in shop

Smith & Wesson Sigma
SP127

in shop

Smith & Wesson 3rd Generation .45
SP128

in shop

Steyer M40, MPS, M9-A1
SP129

in shop

FN Series .45 (FNP, FNS, FNX)
SP130

in shop

Kimber Solo Cary
SP131

in shop

Walther P99, PPQ, Canik TP9, Elite
SP132

in shop

Kahr P40, CW40, PM9
SP133

in shop

SIG P320, 250
SP134

in shop

SIG SAUER P224
SP135

in shop

Kahr P45
SP136

in shop

HK VP9
SP137

in shop

SIG P290 RS
SP138

in shop

Grand Power P11 MK12
SP139

in shop

Walther P22, PPK/S, CZ 83
SP140

in shop

Ruger SR22
SP141

in shop

Walther PPS
SP142

in shop

Browning 1911 (.380 ACP)
SP143Ruger LCP
SP144Honor Defense Honor Guard
SP145

in shop

Ruger American
SP146

in shop

Beretta APX
SP147Diamondback P9
SP148CZ P-10 C
SP149Taurus Millennium PT111 G2
SP150FN Five-seveN (two shoes, one for the front, one for the rear)
SP151Walther CCP (no rails just used for alignment)
SP152Hudson H-9
SP153SIG P365
SP154Remington RP45
SP155Springfield Armory TAC 911
SP156Taurus Millenium PT111 G2 9mm

Headspace

“What is headspace, and when / how do I check it?” is an often asked question posed to professional gunsmiths.

What . . .

First let’s talk about the “What is headspace, …” part of the question. The easy answer is that the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) defines headspace as “The distance from the face of the closed breech of a firearm to the surface in the chamber on which the cartridge case seats.” If you are looking at that definition while scratching your head and thinking, “that sounds nice” but you’re not really sure what it means, you are not alone.

So in the interest of ‘muddying the waters’ a little more let’s look at some specific examples of what is measured when checking headspace. In guns chambered for rimmed cartridges (e.g., .22 Long Rifle, .30-30 Winchester) the measurement is made from the closed breech face to the front of the rim cut. In guns chambered for rimless bottleneck cartridges (e.g., .223 Remington, .30-06 Winchester) the measurement is made from the closed breech face to a specified datum reference point (an unpublished point on the shoulder at a specific diameter).

As you may have been able to tell, the actual measurement of headspace means something a little different based on the cartridge case type that the gun is chambered for (e.g., rimmed, rimless straight-walled, rimless bottleneck, belted magnum, and so on). However, headspace is telling us the same thing regardless of chambering; how far is the distance from the closed breech face to the part of the chamber that stops the forward motion of the cartridge during chambering.

Keep in mind that while correct headspace is a very important component of a safe firearm, it only checks one aspect of a gun’s suitability for safe use. A gun can have correct headspace and still be unsafe to fire due to other issue(s).

Headspace is a little like Goldilocks from the children’s story. It cannot be too big, it cannot be too small, it must be just right.

Cartridges may not chamber, the action may not go into battery, the gun may slam fire, or there may be excess pressure (which can cause very serious damage to the gun and/or the shooter) if headspace is too small. If the headspace is too big the gun may fail to fire, misfire, be inaccurate, and the cartridge cases my excessively stretch, have a short life (for reloading), or rupture (including case head separation).

When . . .

Now that we have a little better understanding of what headspace is, let’s look at when we would need to check it.

When a gun is manufactured, re-barreled or re-chambered it would need to have its headspace checked to ensure that the chamber is meeting the breech face as intended. If the chamber was cut too deep it would result in a headspace that was too large. If the chamber was cut too shallow it would result in a headspace that was too small.

When repairing or modifying a gun in a manner that alters or replaces parts in the action it can change the way that certain types of guns lock up. As an example, look at a bolt action rifle; the distance the bolt face (breech face) is from the chamber is directly related to the placement and size of the locking lugs. Thus, anything that changes the size of the locking lugs could alter the distance between the bolt face is and the chamber.

Classic American Gunsmith recommends checking headspace before any significant gunsmithing work is done to modify a gun. If a fault is found, it allows the client to correct the headspace issue before making an investment in a gun that, in its current state, may not be suitable for the purpose intended. We also require that any job involving action work must be checked for headspace and test fired before the gun is returned to the client.

How . . .

SAFETY: Do not use this post as a how to guide on checking headspace. It was written to inform our clients about what headspace is and what generally happens when they have headspace checked. If you check the headspace of some types of actions incorrectly you can damage the gun. If you do not know what you are doing, take your gun to a competent, qualified, professional gunsmith.

Now that we know why we check headspace, let’s discuss how it is measured. Again, we will start with the easy answer. Most people measure headspace by taking their gun to a competent, qualified, professional gunsmith and letting them do it.

That is not to say that the serious gun enthusiast can’t check headspace; sure they can. However, the gauges cost on the order of $30 to $60 each (depending on manufacturer, caliber / gauge / bore) and there are two or three per set (depending on your situation). That coupled with the fact that most professional gunsmiths will check headspace on a gun for $35-$70 pushes most enthusiasts to the gunsmith based on pure economics.

There are three types of headspace gauges. They are GO, NO-GO, and FIELD. All gauges, that will be used to check headspace on a gun, should be made by the same manufacturer. Do not mix and match gauge manufacturers on the same gun.

The GO gauge measures the SAMMI minimum chamber length. The NO-GO gauge measures an agreed to (by the industry) length between The SAAMI minimum and maximum chamber length. The FIELD gauge measures the SAMMI maximum chamber length or slightly less.

I was taught in gunsmithing school that unless you are in a combat situation do not use FIELD gauges to check headspace. As stated earlier, cartridge case head separations and wall ruptures can occur in a gun that will close on a NO-GO gauge and FIELD gauges are larger then NO-GO gauges. I do not use FIELD gauges in my shop and I strongly recommend that you don’t either.

Like the measurement of headspace is dependent on the type of cartridge, the technique for checking headspace is dependent on the type of action or cartridge (in certain cases) (e.g., bolt action, rimfire, revolver, lever action, pump action) the gun has or is chambered for. This post will cover the general concepts of checking headspace. It is not a how-to guide for checking headspace

In general, to check headspace:

      1. As with all things, you first must ensure that the gun is not loaded. When working on any gun there should never be any live ammunition in the gun or at the workbench.
      2. Rid the action of parts that can interfere with the gauges that will not be used during the test (e.g., extractor, ejector, firing pin). In some gun types, we also remove certain springs while checking headspace. If parts are riveted in place we strip the action the best we can.
      3. Clean the chamber, and any other part of the gun that will come in contact with the gauge.
      4. Cycle the action several times getting a feel for how it closes when empty. Go slowly. Do not force anything. Understand how much force it takes to close. Measure or mark the position of breech faces that do not have a physical locking mechanism (e.g, blowback actions). If it is possible, only use one finger to operate the action.
      5. Place the GO gauge in the chamber. Slowly close the action. Do not force it. Does it lock / does the breech face return to the same position? Does it feel the same? If the action is the same as when empty, remove the Go gauge and;
      6. Place the NO-GO gauge in the chamber. Slowly close the action. Do not force it. Does it lock / does the breech face return to the same position? Does it feel the same? It should not. It should not lock up. The breech face should not return to the same measurement.  The NO-GO gauge should be holding the action open. If the gun closes on a NO-GO gauge it is not safe. Even if it does not close on a FIELD gauge, if a gun closes on a NO-GO gauge do not do anything with it (e.g., shoot it, sell it) until the headspace issue has been corrected.

Generally speaking, If the action closes on the GO gauge but does not close on the NO-GO gauge the gun has headspace that is within limits.

Now you know what is headspace is and generally how it is checked. When building, repairing, or modifying guns, always keep in mind that headspace is one of the very important tolerances that cannot be overlooked. I recommend that you make sure that whoever is checking the headspace on your guns is detail oriented, knowledgeable and careful. This is an area where a small error can lead to irreparable damage to a gun or worse, the injury or death of a shooter.

 

Footnotes / Sources:

The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute, SAAMI, is an association of the larger US manufacturers of guns, ammunition and components. At the request of the US Government, it was founded in 1926 and tasked with creating and publishing US firearms industry standards. For more information on SAAMI, their standards, etc, please visit their website at www.sammi.org ⇒.

Classic American Gunsmith uses Dave Manson ⇒ headspace gauges for all calibers / gauges / bores they are available for.

Glockmeister Sight Tool

In gunsmithing school we are taught to use several different methods of changing sights. There are many different tools that aid in the changing / installation of sights for each type of gun / sight pairing.

One area many people seem to have trouble with is the rear sights on Glock pistols. It is not that changing / installing them is difficult. The hard part is getting them in place without marring the sight with the tool you are using.

I was struggling with this very issue during my last semester in school when I encountered a forum posting raving about the Glockmeister sight tool. It went so far as to question the intelligence of anyone who installed Glock sights more than a few times a year without this tool.

Well as a Glock Certified Armorer I was hoping to work on my fair share of Glocks so decided to give it a try. I visited the website, paid my money, and waited for the UPS driver to arrive. A few days went by and there it was looking up at me from its box. I felt smarter already and I hadn’t even touched it yet.

I used it to install another rear Trijicon HD Night Sight (GL104Y) on a Glock G21 I had been working on. The Glockmeister Sight Tool for All GLOCK Models did not disappoint. It very well may have been the easiest gun accessory upgrade I did in my entire time at school.

I spent more time than I care to admit tinkering with the first rear sight on that Glock. During the install I nicked the side of the sight so I was not satisfied with my work. I would not have returned it to a client in that condition. After I installed the second one with the Glockmeister tool I knew that I would be keeping this tool close at hand. I was done in minutes and there was not even the opportunity to mar the sight in the process.

Any hobbyist with basic skills who doesn’t mind the cost of the tool should not have any problem using it effectively. Just remember that most gunsmith shops will do the work for significantly less then the tool costs.

I highly recommend the Glockmeister Sight Tool for All GLOCK Models for anyone who installs more then three sets of Glock sights a year.